Planning your trek and looking for the best places to stay along the way? This Tour du Mont Blanc camping and accommodation guide covers every stage of the TMB, highlighting the top refuges, lodges, and campsites so you can plan your hike with confidence. Whether you prefer cozy mountain huts or pitching your tent under the stars, this guide walks you through the best options from Les Houches to Courmayeur and beyond.
If you’re still in the early planning phase, make sure to check out my Tour du Mont Blanc packing list and trail overview to get a full picture of what to expect before diving into your stay options.
The Night Before Embarking on the TMB
You have a couple of options for where to stay. You can choose to settle into a cozy hotel in Chamonix, offering easy access to the trailhead, or, like we did, head to Les Houches and camp at Camping Bellevue, which is located very close to the starting point of the TMB.
Tip: Camping Bellevue in Les Houches is a popular spot among hikers, as many choose to stay there the night before starting the TMB. While it’s a great place to rest, it’s not the largest campsite, and it tends to fill up quickly with fellow trekkers. To secure a spot, it’s a good idea to arrive early or even call ahead to check availability. We were lucky enough to grab the last available space!
If you opt to stay in refuges, do note that the demand is high, and during the peak hiking months (June to September), they can fill up months in advance. These huts are typically small, so the availability of space is limited, not to mention that the TMB is one of the most popular treks in Europe. Almost all refuges along the TMB offer online booking through their official websites or via e-mail that can also be found on their official websites. Aim to start booking for November / December prior.
Stage 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines-Montjoie (14 km, 5-6 hours)
Your TMB adventure begins with a relatively moderate stage, which offers stunning views of the Mont Blanc massif and valleys below. The trail starts in the French village of Les Houches and ascends through forests and alpine meadows, crossing the Col de Voza.
Campsite
We stayed at Camping Le Pontet. Booking in advance was not required however, do check out their website for updates on reservations, facilities and pricing.
Accommodation
Some popular choices include Chalet-hotel Gai Soleil and Hotel Le Christiania.
Stage 2: Les Contamines-Montjoie to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (17 km, 7-8 hours)
This stage takes you through lush valleys and up to the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. I found this part the most challenging, but the views of the surrounding mountains make the effort worthwhile.
Campsite
Thanks to the flexibility of wild camping regulations in France, we were able to pitch our tent right by the Croix de la Bonhomme, enjoying the stunning views of the Alps and tranquil atmosphere in solitude. If you’re looking to embrace the wilderness, this is the perfect place to camp. This was one of the highlights of our trek, especially since, we were lucky enough to spot a herd of ibex grazing on the slopes nearby. It was a magical experience, and one that reminded us of the unique wildlife that calls this area home.
Accommodation
Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme provides a cozy, rustic stay in a mountain hut.
Stage 3: Col de la Croix du Bonhomme to Les Chapieux (10 km, 3-4 hours)
This stage is shorter, offering a more relaxed pace with breathtaking views of glaciers and alpine meadows. It’s a gentle descent as you make your way into the French hamlet of Les Chapieux.
Campsite
Camping Les Chapieux is a convenient site to set up camp, providing stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
However, as mentioned, we hiked the TMB from Les Houches to Courmayeur so, on this day we combined stages 3 & 4, took the bus from Les Chapieux to Refuge des Mottets and walked all the way to HOBO camping. HOBO camping was our favourite designated campsite by far. The facilities are top notch and the bar serves incredible foccacias. Like us, you can opt to take a rest day here and there are plenty of things to keep you occupied on the campsite or to take a short bus ride into Courmayeur.
Accommodation
Gîte d’étape Les Chapieux offers a warm, comfortable place to rest your legs after a long day of hiking. Additionally, Hotel La Nova is another option for those seeking a bit more comfort.
Another option is to take the bus from Les Chapieux to Refuge des Mottets as this part of the route follows the road and you will not miss anything. Refuge des Mottets is a part of Stage 4 detailed below.
Stage 4: Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta (20 km, 7-8 hours)
The Italian side of the TMB comes into view as you enter the region of the Aosta Valley. This stage includes a challenging ascent to the Col de la Seigne, but the views over the Italian Alps are unbeatable.
Campsite
You can camp near Rifugio Elisabetta, though options are more limited in this area compared to other stages. Always check with the refuge before pitching a tent. Your other option is to continue a few kilometers further into Courmayeur and stay at HOBO camping.
Accommodation
The Rifugio Elisabetta is a welcoming mountain refuge with excellent food and friendly service. The refuge is perfect for hikers seeking a warm, alpine atmosphere.
Stage 5: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur (12 km, 5-6 hours)
The descent into Courmayeur is steep but rewarding, with stunning views of Mont Blanc and surrounding peaks. Courmayeur itself is a lively resort town known for its food and culture, making it a great place to rest and refuel.
Campsite
Camping Dolonne is a convenient option, located just outside Courmayeur and surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery.
Accommodation
Courmayeur offers a range of accommodations, from budget hostels to luxury hotels like Hotel Mont Blanc and Auberge de La Maison.
Stage 6: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti (11 km, 4-5 hours)
This stage is a beautiful but challenging hike through alpine meadows and forests, taking you closer to the Mont Blanc massif. The trail leads to the Rifugio Bonatti, named after the legendary Italian mountaineer.
Campsite
Camping options are available around Rifugio Bonatti, since, in Italy it is permitted to set-up tent late and leave early as long as it’s above 2,000 meters.
We did this stage of the hike and returned back to Courmayeur via bus to travel back to Turin airport for our flight back home. Getting from Courmayeur to Turin is straight forward thanks to the direct connecting by bus between the two. The company that serves this route is Arriva or Flixbus and you can get your tickets online or on the spot.
Accommodation
Rifugio Bonatti is a popular choice, known for its stunning location and excellent facilities. It’s the perfect place to spend the night after a day of challenging hiking.
Even if you’re not staying here, make sure you stop for a hot chocolate, it’s to die for.
Stage 7: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly (15 km, 6-7 hours)
Crossing the Swiss border, this stage offers dramatic alpine scenery and a descent into the charming Swiss village of La Fouly. The trail is long but relatively gentle.
Campsite
Camping La Fouly offers amazing views of the surrounding mountains.
Accommodation
Hotel La Fouly offers cozy accommodation for hikers.
Stage 8: La Fouly to Champex (15 km, 5-6 hours)
This stage takes you through lush forests and alpine meadows, offering stunning views of the surrounding Swiss Alps. The village of Champex is a popular spot to rest and take in the views of the pristine alpine lake.
Campsite
Camping Champex offers a beautiful lakeside location for camping, with easy access to the village and surrounding trails.
Accommodation
Hotel du Glacier and Auberge de la Croix de Coeur are two great options for those looking for a comfortable stay in Champex.
Stage 9: Champex to Trient (15 km, 6-7 hours)
This stage takes you into the heart of the Swiss Alps, with stunning views and a challenging ascent to the Col de la Forclaz before descending into the village of Trient.
Campsite
Camping Trient provides a peaceful spot for camping, with views of the Trient Glacier.
Accommodation
Refuge de Trient offers a mountain refuge with spectacular views.
Stage 10: Trient to Les Houches (17 km, 6-7 hours)
The final stage of the TMB brings you back to France, descending to the village of Les Houches. The trail passes through beautiful forests and alpine meadows, providing a final opportunity to soak in the stunning Mont Blanc views before reaching the end of the circuit.
Campsite
Camping Bellevue, where you started, is a convenient location for those looking to camp at the end of their TMB adventure.
Accommodation
Les Granges d’En Haut is a spectacular stay if you have the budget for it but there are plenty of other accommodation options in Les Houches.
Final Thoughts
Each stage of the TMB offers its own unique challenges and rewards, whether you prefer the comfort of a mountain refuge or the simplicity of camping under the stars, the TMB provides plenty of options to suit every type of hiker.
Happy Travels! x
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