Visiting Tallinn in December had been on my wishlist for years. Snow-dusted medieval streets, Christmas markets glowing under fairy lights, and that unmistakable Baltic winter atmosphere; I wanted all of it. And let me tell you, Tallinn delivered.
Being based in Malta, getting to Northern Europe always requires a bit of planning. For Tallinn, there were two main options: fly into Riga and endure a 4–4.5 hour bus ride north, or fly into Stockholm and take a short hop across the Baltic. We chose the second option.
Flights from Malta to Stockholm in December were under €50 return, which honestly felt unreal. We spent two days in Stockholm first, then flew from Stockholm Arlanda to Tallinn on a Ryanair flight that lasted just 40–45 minutes. Easy, affordable (€36 return), and efficient.
Getting There (and Making It Work)
We flew to Tallinn early on a Friday morning and returned to Stockholm on Saturday evening, giving us two full days in the Estonian capital. One thing to keep in mind if you’re doing this route: Stockholm city centre is around 40km from Arlanda Airport. Our 7am flight meant being at the airport by 5am, so we stayed at an airport hotel — Forenom Aparthotel Arlanda.
At around €80 per night for a studio apartment (with a shuttle bus every 15 minutes, even overnight), it was a practical and comfortable choice. We stayed there again on Saturday night as our flight back to Malta was the next day.
First Impressions of Tallinn
From Tallinn Airport to the city centre, things couldn’t have been easier. Estonia is the home of Bolt, and using it felt almost mandatory. Our Bolt ride to Citybox Tallinn cost just €8 and took around 12 minutes. The airport is less than 5km from the city centre; incredibly convenient.
If you’re on a budget, there’s also Bus No. 2, operated by Tallinna Linnatranspordi AS. It runs every 20 minutes, takes roughly the same amount of time, and costs just €2 per person.
And before I go any further, Estonia absolutely blew my mind when it comes to technology. Everything is seamless, digital, and efficient.
Where We Stayed: Citybox Tallinn
Citybox Tallinn was a standout. At just €70 per night, it felt like a steal (and It’s even cheaper on week nights). The hotel is fully automated, with self check-in terminals instead of a traditional reception. You receive a code by email, enter it at the machine, and it prints your room key.
We arrived around 9am, well before check-in, and were given access to a secure luggage storage room using a temporary card. Only guests can enter, which felt reassuring. Smart, efficient, and very Estonian.
Bakeries First (Obviously)
Our first stop in Tallinn was food. Specifically: bakeries. I’d done my research beforehand, knowing we’d need somewhere cosy to warm up after the early flight and freezing temperatures.
One of the most recommended bakeries was Røst Bakery, located in Rotermann Quarter, right across from our hotel. It absolutely lived up to the hype; flaky pastries, bold flavours, and excellent quality. The downside? It’s tiny and very busy. We were lucky enough to snag the last two high stools.
Highlights included miniature tarts filled with goat cheese and Parma ham (dangerously good), a dill and cheese pastry, a tuna sandwich, and of course, a cinnamon bun. After five days of cinnamon bun tasting across, I felt oddly qualified to judge, and Røst did not disappoint.
That said… the best cinnamon buns of the trip were still to come.
Exploring the City: Free Walking Tour
As always, we joined a free walking tour — the “Tallinn in a Nutshell” tour by EST Adventures. It ran from 11am to 1pm and was one of the best city tours I’ve done. Our local guide was incredibly knowledgeable, and I can’t recommend it enough.
The tour began at Freedom Square, continued through the Danish King’s Garden, and led us to our first jaw-dropping views of the medieval walls and red rooftops. From there, we admired the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (a masterpiece architecturally, with a surprisingly simple interior) while learning about Estonia’s complex relationship with Russia.
We visited two famous viewpoints:
- Patkuli Viewing Platform, overlooking the Creative City
- Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform, my favourite, with panoramic views of the Old Town
We finished the tour wandering through narrow cobbled streets before reaching Town Hall Square, home to Tallinn’s iconic Christmas market.
The Tallinn Christmas Market usually runs from late November until late December. In 2025, it was open from November 21st to December 27th. Dates for 2026 aren’t out yet, but they’re typically similar.
Pulla Bakery: A Life-Changing Discovery
After the tour, we accidentally stumbled upon Pulla Bakery — and honestly, this place deserves a pilgrimage.
The menu is simple:
- Three types of focaccia
- Around four cinnamon bun flavours
That’s it. And somehow, it’s perfect.
The bakery is warm, cosy, and constantly baking fresh batches. We were lucky to find a table and ended up staying for over an hour, sampling focaccias, cinnamon buns, and endless cups of tea. This doubled as our lunch and my favourite meal in Tallinn.
Christmas Markets & Evening Atmosphere
After checking into our room and resting a bit, we headed back out to the Christmas markets.
The setting is magical, but it’s important to manage expectations. There are around 40 stalls, most selling food, with a handful offering ornaments and clothing. It’s nothing like the vast markets in Germany or Austria but that’s also part of its charm!
The scent of mulled wine fills the air. though in Tallinn, it’s called glögi. A quick note: a cup at the Christmas market (served in a plastic cup, sadly — unlike the beautiful mugs in Germany) costs around €7, while restaurants around the Old Town sell it for as little as €2.50. I’ll let you decide whether the market version is worth it.
The food was excellent: sausages, fried dumplings (incredible), mini pancakes, and plenty of warming treats. What really stood out was the atmosphere. The crowds were relaxed, there was space to walk freely, and the central stage hosted performances throughout the early evening.
A man dressed as Father Christmas invited people on stage to sing carols in their own language, followed by traditional folklore dancing in full costume. It felt authentic, wholesome, and refreshingly uncommercial.
Day Two: Markets, Creative City & Soviet History
On our second day, we revisited a few favourite spots from the walking tour and explored the lower town more thoroughly, including St. Catherine’s Passage, a charming, narrow, cobblestone passage steeped in history and today lined with artisan workshops.
For lunch, we headed to Balti Jaam Market, highly recommended by our walking tour guide. Split over two floors, the ground level is packed with food stalls from around the world, while the upper floor focuses on antiques. Unsurprisingly, we spent most of our time eating.
Afterwards, we wandered through the Telliskivi Creative City area, where old Soviet factories have been transformed into cafes, studios, and cultural spaces. The colourful doors, street art, and bohemian vibe were a fascinating contrast to the medieval Old Town.
We walked as far as Iglupark, home to saunas and ice dips for the brave. On a freezing December day, it wasn’t exactly inviting but I can imagine it being incredible in summer.
After another quick stroll through the Christmas market, we settled in for an early dinner at In the 372, a Malaysian, Singaporean, and Indonesian restaurant with glowing reviews. It exceeded expectations and, coincidentally, was in its final week at that location before moving to a larger space near the Creative City.
Tallinn Airport: The Best Surprise
We grabbed our luggage and took a Bolt to the airport and honestly, Tallinn Airport deserves its own applause.
For such a small airport, it’s exceptional. Spotlessly clean, calm, and unbelievably well-equipped. There’s even a gym in the departures area; complete with monkey bars, treadmill, rower, and a ski erg. There’s also table tennis, board games, and quiet seating areas.
Time flew by. Instead of sitting around waiting, we played table tennis and a game of draughts. Even the café, Põhjala Deli, is open 24 hours. Ten out of ten!
Final Thoughts
One last thing worth mentioning: Helsinki is only a two-hour ferry ride away from Tallinn, making it easy to combine multiple capitals in one trip.
For us,two days in Tallinn felt just right to see the highlights. The city centre is compact and walkable, though the cobblestones and hills are worth noting if mobility is a concern.
Personally, I wouldn’t recommend visiting Tallinn in winter unless it’s during the Christmas market season. If you do visit in winter, make sure you’re properly prepared, I’ve shared my winter packing list with exactly what to wear to stay warm and comfortable. Summer would be a completely different, and equally beautiful, with outdoor dining and easier access to nature.
That said, Tallinn in December gave me exactly what I hoped for: festive charm, incredible food, manageable crowds, and a city that feels both historic and forward-thinking.
And yes, I’ll absolutely be back. Just maybe next time, in summer.
Happy Travels! x
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